(USA) WD Easystore 8TB External $180 @ Best Buy + FS


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Looking more closely today, the MyBook and EasyStore cases look  similar. But the instructions are quite different between the video and the PDF I posted. Can anyone that has shucked this particular model verify which technique they used?

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Looking more closely today, the MyBook and EasyStore cases look  similar. But the instructions are quite different between the video and the PDF I posted. Can anyone that has shucked this particular model verify which technique they used?

I posted the link to that video as they open the same. I shucked 17 of the easystore's. You don't have to take the advice or the video link I posted, it's completely up to you. But that's how I opened mine in roughly 30 seconds with no broken tabs.


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Just out of curiosity, are the serial #'s of the drives recorded on the cases?   e.g. do you need to mark the drive-case association so if you ever need to put the drive back in the case you get it in the proper case?    I presume you have a "box full of cases" so you can get warranty service if needed :D

 

... although quite frankly these are enough cheaper than the bare drives that even if you had to toss a couple it'd still be a good deal.

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Just out of curiosity, are the serial #'s of the drives recorded on the cases?   e.g. do you need to mark the drive-case association so if you ever need to put the drive back in the case you get it in the proper case?    I presume you have a "box full of cases" so you can get warranty service if needed

 

... although quite frankly these are enough cheaper than the bare drives that even if you had to toss a couple it'd still be a good deal.

Yes, the actual serial number of the drive matched the serial of the external enclosure.

 

I know what ya mean, I had to write everything down for the 16TB Duos as the Duo had one serial number, then the drives each had their own.

 

Edit: I do in fact have a rubber/plastic tote full of enclosures sitting in my attic. I'll keep them up there for two years then toss them. But in all honesty with finally making the switch from (120) 2TB drives to (32) 8TB drives, I think I'll skip the 10TB Reds and probably replace these with 12TB drives before the warranty comes due.

 

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Agree.   Jumping from 8 to 10 simply isn't enough of a bump to make it worthwhile to replace them.   Even 12TB is questionable -- I also wouldn't be surprised if you can get 16TB units in 2 years or so.     Hard drives have come a L..O..N..G  way since my first 26MB Seagate (a 14" drive that cost me $4500 !!)

 

 

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1 hour ago, CyberSkulls said:


I posted the link to that video as they open the same. I shucked 17 of the easystore's. You don't have to take the advice or the video link I posted, it's completely up to you. But that's how I opened mine in roughly 30 seconds with no broken tabs.


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Ok - thanks Cyber.

 

Wasn't a trust issue. Was just trying to make sure I had the right instructions. Seems two very different methods, which made me think the cases were different. I like the one you posted better from easy perspective. 

 

Will give it a shot and see how it goes.

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Agree.   Jumping from 8 to 10 simply isn't enough of a bump to make it worthwhile to replace them.   Even 12TB is questionable -- I also wouldn't be surprised if you can get 16TB units in 2 years or so.     Hard drives have come a L..O..N..G  way since my first 26MB Seagate (a 14" drive that cost me $4500 !!)

 

 

I wouldn't be shocked either. Took WD forever to bring the 10TB Red to market since the gold had been out for forever and a day. I know 12TB drives are already shipping to ENT customers and Seagate had mentioned having 14TB models out this year but I think it's more likely gonna be next year. So I agree, in two years 16TB drives will probably be readily available making others question why we're running such small drives!

 

 

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SUCCESSFUL SHUCK!

 

Tried first the instructions Cyber posted. Unfortunately I couldn't make it work. The video is of a person demonstrated on an already shucked case. Trying to pry the case open caused the credit cards to just bend. You'd need something stronger than plastic to make that work on a new drive. Sorry Cyber - but I just wasn't able to make it work. Maybe you have a platinum card. ;)

 

So I tried following the PDF instructions. .If you look at the PDF pics (see Shuck PDF) you will see that you are sliding a piece of plastic into the clipping mechanism. Makes sense that would make it easier for the case to slide apart. It shows putting guitar picks in the four clips. I used full sized credit cards. No problem sliding them in as directed, and you would barely scratch even a shiny new card if you used it for this purpose. No dragging it along. The hardest part was prying the case sides down after putting the four credit cards in place. I alternated one side and the other. I was not making much progress - opened a gap only about width of the credit card. Kept pushing the 4 cards in as far as possible. But kept at it for 3-4 back and forths along the curved surface with a credit card (this one you might scuff a little) and eventually there was a tiny click and a slightly larger gap appeared. Going to the other side, it was loose and the gap widened. Sliding it out from there was easy.

 

The next segment of the extraction took a little more searching. Here is a link to what you will find inside. Neither Cyber's video or my PDF covers this part.

 

Shuck part 2

 

Note you will need a Torx #10 screwdriver or bit.

 

There are some delicate parts inside that will take a gentle hand to remove without damaging. Once you remove the screw holding the USB converter to the drive, and pry the tiny light bar out of the screw hole in the drive, you can remove the drive. Once it is out you remove the USB controller and then the grommets and see the screws with the torx heads to unscrew.

 

Perfect new disk. Unscathed case. Life is good.

 

Took me about 20 minutes, half of which was finding my Torx screwdriver. Next one will be easier.

 

Thanks!

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That's odd that you couldn't get them open like the video showed. I did my first couple the way you described worked for you, the PDF, which is where I kept snapping the tabs off. Switched over to the way it showed in the video and it came right apart.

I did 14 of them I believe with the same card. It was actually one of those flimsy AARP cards you get in the junk mail. It did bend the card which is what made them come out so easily.

It's all about applying slight pressure where it is needed. But at the end of the day you got it open so that's all that matters :)


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Just shucked mine an hour ago. I watched the video for reference but followed the PDF more in practice.

 

I used four plastic store gift cards. Didn't do any sliding back and forth of the cards as was suggested. I simply inserted the corner of the card where the internal clip should be located according to the PDF.  You can feel it when you're in the right spot.

 

I then pushed the cards corner in straight and with some force until there was a noticeable give which released the clip. Repeated with the other three cards. After doing the first one the rest were done in about 5 secs. Was really easy..

 

Using a small plastic screw driver I pried the top and bottom back to get the gap started then slide it apart by hand.

 

The cards and the enclosure were not damaged in any way.

Edited by PCRx
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I'm also debating buying these drives. On the one hand the price is the lowest its been and the deal is still alive. But 10TB drives are definitely coming this year, may even be affordable, and we'll probably have a price drop for 8TB. But also we can't be sure if the enclosure will still contain Reds?

 

With unRaid I'm not even sure NAS rated drives are needed or make a difference.

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I'm also debating buying these drives. On the one hand the price is the lowest its been and the deal is still alive. But 10TB drives are definitely coming this year, may even be affordable, and we'll probably have a price drop for 8TB. But also we can't be sure if the enclosure will still contain Reds?  

With unRaid I'm not even sure NAS rated drives are needed or make a difference.

 

Affordable is relative but compared to the $180 deal we're all getting for the 8TB Reds, they are way out of the ballpark at MSRP.

 

https://www.wdc.com/about-wd/newsroom/press-room/2017-05-17-western-digital-expands-wd-red-and-wd-red-pro-nas-drives-with-10tb.html

 

Looks like they are already a available on the WD site. I haven't tried to add to card so don't know if it's pre order or not. Looks like $399

 

https://www.wdc.com/products/internal-storage/wd-red.html#WD100EFAX

 

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  • 1 month later...

I am about to buy 4 of these today.  I need to get a card that supports these larger drives.  Since i am coming from the LSI BR10i cards that only worked with 2 gig hard drives.  What is a good card to get nowadays as its been awhile since i had to research them.

 

Thanks.

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1 hour ago, BobPhoenix said:

Probably to put them back and RMA them if defective.  I'm always worried they will be able to tell and disallow the RMA anyway.

I just preclear before shucking. yes, it takes longer, but it typically finishes before I can get back to work on it again.

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Preclearing in a sweatbox is not advisable. I'd rather take a 3% risk of a bad one, than increase the risk of failure down the road.

 

Quite likely the preclear will have to be redone after unshucking, because the USB setups tend to adjust the drive's geometry.

 

If you are preclearing in the cage, blow a box fan on it to keep the temps down!

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3 hours ago, bjp999 said:

Preclearing in a sweatbox is not advisable. I'd rather take a 3% risk of a bad one, than increase the risk of failure down the road.

 

If you are preclearing in the cage, blow a box fan on it to keep the temps down!

Agreed, hence I do use an external fan and some cardboard ductwork.

 

 

3 hours ago, bjp999 said:

Quite likely the preclear will have to be redone after unshucking, because the USB setups tend to adjust the drive's geometry.

I have not come across this issue. However the purpose of this preclear is to find DOA drives, which remains valid.

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