tmchow Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Saw your edit. Turn Smart Fan mode off. Set them to full. Or I guess you could play with the Smart mode temperature ranges BUT I would just get them running at full. The fans are quiet anyway. Running at Full is raging loud, too loud for me. Is there an easy way to tweak the bios settings to different fan levels to see the speed change? Or do I need to set the level, save and reboot to see the change? Quote Link to comment
danioj Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Saw your edit. Turn Smart Fan mode off. Set them to full. Or I guess you could play with the Smart mode temperature ranges BUT I would just get them running at full. The fans are quiet anyway. Running at Full is raging loud, too loud for me. Is there an easy way to tweak the bios settings to different fan levels to see the speed change? Or do I need to set the level, save and reboot to see the change? Well, it depends what your board supports. For instance my IPMI interface only lets me select the following options: You should log into your IPMI interface and see what options there are to select. In this way you can "Tweak" without going into BIOS and rebooting etc. You could always NOT let the system get into unRAID (stop it at the boot screen) and just change the fan settings. Let it run for a while then look in the BIOS at temps. This is not a great suggestion BUT I am running out of them. Quote Link to comment
dmacias Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Saw your edit. Turn Smart Fan mode off. Set them to full. Or I guess you could play with the Smart mode temperature ranges BUT I would just get them running at full. The fans are quiet anyway. Running at Full is raging loud, too loud for me. Is there an easy way to tweak the bios settings to different fan levels to see the speed change? Or do I need to set the level, save and reboot to see the change? Yes in the the smart fan control in the bios you can tweak the curve for the temps/power ratio. My noctuas are running at 800 rpms and low 30s. You may be able to bump them up to just 600 and that may be enough. The way I have them set allows for parity sync/checks to stay in the high 30s to low 40s. So they are probably set too high for the majority of time but high enough to cover stressful times. Also if your system/cpu are too cool then smart fan won't spin the fans fast enough for high drive temps. My board is fanless. Quote Link to comment
ashman70 Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 I just completed a DS380 build and I am currently transferring data to it. I replaced all three of the original Silverstone fans with two Corsair SP 120 fans on the side, they run at 2350 RPM and one Corsair AF 120 that runs at 1350 RPM at the back of the case. During the array sync my HD temps creeped up to about 41 degrees Celsius and at that point I removed the side of the case and opened the front door on the case and the temps dropped. Right now with the door open and side of the case off the temps are 32, 34, 33, 32, 32 I have only five drive in the case at the moment. I'll report back in a few days when the data copy is done and I put the side back on, we'll see what the temps are like then. Quote Link to comment
tmchow Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 Yes in the the smart fan control in the bios you can tweak the curve for the temps/power ratio. My noctuas are running at 800 rpms and low 30s. You may be able to bump them up to just 600 and that may be enough. The way I have them set allows for parity sync/checks to stay in the high 30s to low 40s. So they are probably set too high for the majority of time but high enough to cover stressful times. Good advice, just did this to bump the temp/power ratio. Moved everything up one step, and the HDs are running cooler. Screenshot at idle with no load: When the parity check was still going on, they hit 45-47C. Someone else mentioned I should try cover my "swiss cheese" holes in my drive cage to improve cooling so i'm going to cover them with some gaffer tape if I see the temps creeping up or I add more drives which will no doubt raise temps. Also if your system/cpu are too cool then smart fan won't spin the fans fast enough for high drive temps. My board is fanless. I just realized this last night, and my mistake was assuming that magically the fans would be linked to the array temp which doesn't make sense. Quote Link to comment
pras1011 Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 My temps inside this case are not so bad. I have 5 seagate 8tb hdd and two of them get to 41. Nearly the same as my fractal r5. I too have blocked up the holes at the rear. But this cases cable management is so messy. There are cables everywhere. Luckily the cables are on the inside and therefore can't be seen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment
garycase Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 ... But this cases cable management is so messy. There are cables everywhere. Luckily the cables are on the inside and therefore can't be seen. Did you buy "just long enough" cables? That can make a BIG difference. Sometimes it's also helpful to use left-hand connections, depending on just how the cables need to run. I try to also use cables that are no more than an inch or two longer than they need to be. These guys sell both left-hand and right-hand cables in just about any length you might want (in 2" increments starting at 4"): http://www.cpustuff.com/left-angle-to-straight-sata-cable/ Quote Link to comment
pras1011 Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 The long sata cables are useful. It means that I don't have to disconnect the sata cables to get the hdd caddy out of the way. I also blocked off the rear honeycomb holes at the back. This may have improved cooling. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment
Viaduct Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Just added an lsi card and unfortunately it is just a few millimetres too wide to fit without having to take the plastic drive slide out. Effectively taking out a drive slot. Might have to get the dremel out to shave a notch in it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment
dmacias Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Just added an lsi card and unfortunately it is just a few millimetres too wide to fit without having to take the plastic drive slide out. Effectively taking out a drive slot. Might have to get the dremel out to shave a notch in it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk How many drives you gonna try and fit in there? You gonna shave the card or the black plastic piece? Quote Link to comment
Viaduct Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 I have lost trust in the second Marvell controller! Got lots of preclear errors with it and read errors. Currently have 7 spinning and 2 SSD. So have 6 on board and 3 off lsi. Working well so far but it has only been a couple of days. If I need another spinny such as when 6.2 comes with dual parity I'll need to rethink. Either shave a bit off the plastic insert or get a new case. Can't really shave the card since the sas socket is right there! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment
dmacias Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Which marvell? The 2 or 4 port? 9172 or 9230? There's a firmware update asrockrack for the 9230. Also bios updates have helped? I didn't do the firmware for the marvell for a long time. But noticed some errors on one of the 6.2 betas. I think when I added the second parity. So I flashed it. No problems since. Quote Link to comment
Viaduct Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 The 4 port one. The 2 port one works fine. I'm on latest firmware. I tried to re flash the Marvell but couldn't get the USB to boot. I didn't persevere because some on line reports still suggested it was a bit dodgy and to be honest I don't trust it anymore. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment
pras1011 Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 How is this case going for people? Quote Link to comment
ashman70 Posted April 24, 2017 Share Posted April 24, 2017 I have zero issues with mine. Quote Link to comment
dmacias Posted April 25, 2017 Share Posted April 25, 2017 How is this case going for people?Great case still. No problems other than the air flow through hard drives which was easily solved with a plastic partition separating the intake fans from the motherboard and forcing the air through the drive cage. Quote Link to comment
pras1011 Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 What is currently the best fans to get? Or are the stock fans good? Quote Link to comment
dmacias Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 What is currently the best fans to get? Or are the stock fans good?My motherboard can only control 4 pin PWM fans. I picked up some Noctuas but they are a little expensive. The stock fans are 3 pin but seemed decent. Quote Link to comment
HellDiverUK Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 Noctua fans are good, I have lots of them but they're very expensive. I'm moving over to the new Corsair ML Pro fans which seem just as good at nearly half the price. Quote Link to comment
pras1011 Posted April 27, 2017 Share Posted April 27, 2017 (edited) What is the model of the fans in the 380? Nevermind: RL4Z S1202512LIW-3M made by Globe Fan. The design is about 7 years old. https://www.quietpc.com/120mmfans I like the Nanoxia 120mm PWM Deep Silence and they seem to perform better than the noctua nf f12 pwm. Thoughts? Edited April 27, 2017 by pras1011 Quote Link to comment
kifysara Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Dear all, I've been asked to build a new DS380 setup for a (jealous!) friend and have a couple of questions, in case you can help out. Considering the Asus P10S-i as a mobo, 16GB DDR4, 300W Silverstone SFX PSU, along with a Pentium G4560 Kaby Lake CPU. Do you happen to know if the stock CPU cooler that comes in the box will fit in the DS380? Moreover, does it make any sense to pay some more for the G4560T (35W version) of the CPU, to sacrifice some performance for lower consumption (and perhaps lower noise)? Not exactly sure how we'll setup unRAID at this point, but considering he's not very tech-savvy I don't believe he'll need any heavy work (e.g. transcoding) on it. Quote Link to comment
JonathanM Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 8 minutes ago, kifysara said: Moreover, does it make any sense to pay some more for the G4560T (35W version) of the CPU, to sacrifice some performance for lower consumption (and perhaps lower noise)? No. The thermal limited processors will consume the same if not more power for the same tasks. They just take longer to accomplish the task to keep the average consumption lower, which in turn will keep the drives spun up longer taking more overall power, not less. As long as you can physically dissipate the peak power consumption, it's always better to get the task over and done sooner. 1 Quote Link to comment
garycase Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Agree the limited power versions of the CPU aren't necessary. Don't agree that they would actually INCREASE the overall power for tasks, but nevertheless it's true that you'll RARELY exceed the power limits of the "T" version anyway, as the standard CPU is very unlikely to draw that much in normal UnRAID usage. And it's true that if you DO need the power, it's nice to simply have it available. As for the stock cooler => Yes, it fits fine in the ITX cases; and provides plenty of cooling for the CPU. 1 Quote Link to comment
JonathanM Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 4 minutes ago, garycase said: Don't agree that they would actually INCREASE the overall power for tasks Say you are transcoding a video. While that is in process, 2 or more drives must be spun up, depending on single or dual parity, source vs destination, etc. The actual transcode is heavily CPU dependent, so the T version will take some arbitrary amount of extra time to complete the task. When the transcode is done, all drives can then spin down. The transcode CPU cycles will be similar, so total power consumed by the CPU will be similar. The drives will consume extra power comparatively, because they were in use longer. Same task, extra power. Quote Link to comment
garycase Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 A standard G4560 has a TDP of 54w, vs. 35w for the "T" version. So on a highly-intensive operation that occupies 100% of the CPU it's going to draw 19w more than the "T" version would. While it's true this will allow the operation to finish somewhat earlier than with the lower-power version of the CPU, it's not likely to be a significantly shorter time, due to the I/O requirements, which aren't impacted by the speed of the CPU. So I do NOT think this is a linear function. Note that modern disk drives are far more power-efficient than previous drives -- a 4TB WD Red for example only draws 3.3w when idle (4.5 during I/O -- but the total amount of I/O would be the same regardless of the processor; so any "extra" time waiting for processing it will be idle). So you have a CPU drawing 19w more for slightly less time vs. a disk drive drawing 3.3w more for a small amount of time. Clearly which scenario would actually use more power depends on how many drives are spinning and just what the time differences are; but I very much doubt it's a significant difference in either case. And note that if the transcoding is for a Plex stream there's (a) likely only one disk involved; and (b) the disk is probably spinning for the entire stream anyway, since it's steaming a video at "watching speed" -- not at the minimum time it can transcode it. Nevertheless, as I noted earlier, I'd go with the higher speed CPU anyway -- it's always nice to have a bit of extra "horsepower" Quote Link to comment
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